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Seed Pods On Elephant Ear Plants: Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds

Seed Pods On Elephant Ear Plants: Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds


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By: Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Do Alocasia elephant ears have seeds? They do reproduce through seed but it takes years before you will get the big beautiful leaves. Older plants in good conditions will produce a spathe and spadix that will eventually produce seed pods. Elephant ear flower seeds are only viable a short time, so if you want to plant them, harvest the pods and use them as soon as possible.

Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?

Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant.

Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers.

Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on an elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.

Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds

Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed.

Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy.

Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.

Propagation of Elephant Ear

Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production.

Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors.

Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.

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Propagate Elephant Ear Plant

If you want to exactly reproduce the mother plant, use vegetative propagation rather than seed. Grow the plant you want to propagate until it is clustered, with several main groupings of stems coming from the bottom. For optimum growth, give the plant an organic-rich, well-draining soil, plenty of water and abundant nutrients during the warm months of the year.

Elephant ears will also grow in up to six inches of standing water. Plants prefer bright, indirect light but need full shade in dry, hot areas.

Don't try to propagate elephant ears from cuttings, Instead, when the mother plant has grown into a large clump, dig up and divide the tubers. Wait until winter or early spring when growth has slowed before dividing the mother plant.


Old Age

Old patches of giant elephant ear need rejuvenation to stay healthy and looking sharp. Over time, the roots system crowds itself, causing some of the corms to die from lack of soil and nutrients. In the process, the overgrown areas begin to appear ragged and unhealthy. The leaves can be removed to improve the appearance, but ideally the corms should be divided to create more space. Add new soil around the roots after some of the old corms have been removed to refresh and invigorate the patch.

Brian Barth works in the fields of landscape architecture and urban planning and is co-founder of Urban Agriculture, Inc., an Atlanta-based design firm where he is head environmental consultant. He holds a Master's Degree in Environmental Planning and Design from the University of Georgia. His blog, Food for Thought, explores the themes of land use, urban agriculture, and environmental literacy.


How and When to Water

When it comes to watering me, below are some helpful suggestions for you to follow. Keep in mind that every plant, like every human, is unique and our needs change over time.

Depending on where you end up placing me, I may get more or less thirsty and would require watering with more or less frequency. The humidity in the room, the time of the year, and the amount of AC/Heating, among other factors will all affect my watering needs. Fortunately, it’s easy to figure out what to do as I will show you how I feel you just need to check up on me once in a while.

Start by watering me once a week. Use a spray bottle, watering can, or measuring cup to water me with approximately 16 ounces (473 ml) of watering per session.

Pour water slowly all around the center of the plant so that it filters down the base. Watering is no good to me if the water runs down the outside of the root ball, leaving my central roots dry. This can happen if you water too quickly or apply too much water at once. Slower watering is usually more effective. The key is to ensure that water gets to my root zone. Sometimes it is helpful to prick little holes into the gravel and soil with a dull knife or the end of a pencil and pour water inside to assure it goes down well.

Check up on the same day of the month by inserting your finger into the soil about half an inch and feel the moisture level. If it feels moist, try again in a couple of days. If the soil feels dry, you need to water me as instructed above. I like moist but not soggy soil. Once we do this for a few weeks, you will get the hang of it and you can determine the best watering schedule for your light, temperature and moisture conditions.


You should also make sure that only person is in charge of my care schedule. This way, we can form a loving relationship and I don’t get watered more or less often than I need to be.


Alocasia Amazonica Soil Conditions

When it comes to the best soil to grow Alocasia Amazonica, you will get the best performance and healthiest growth from well-aerated soil that drains quickly. Heavy soil has a tendency to retain too much moisture, which can lead to rot problems and even plant death.

Many garden supply stores carry soil mixtures labeled “Jungle Mix,” which is a good mixture to plant and grow your Alocasia Amazonica. You are trying to replicate decomposing soil found on the floor of a forest.

If you’d like to purchase a perfect potting mix for your Alocasia Amazonica online, then one of these aroid mixes from Etsy will be ideal. These can be used for all kinds of Aroid houseplants.

Alternatively, you can create your own soil mixture using the following materials

  • 25% Fir Bark
  • 25% Perlite
  • 30% Coconut Coir
  • 10% Horticultural Charcoal
  • 10% Worm Castings

Whatever soil mixture you decide to use just make sure it is lightweight and does not have a tendency to retain too much water.


Watch the video: Παλιάτσος-Παιδική χορωδίαPaliatsos


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